Gray Peak, Mount Skylight, and Mount Marcy
Date of hike: 7/13/2019
Vertical Ascent: 4870’
Length of Hike (miles): 17.9
Total Time: 15:00
Hiked with: David H, Alex, and Camryn
Sam joined us for dinner at Pancho’s, then we parted and the four of us headed for the southern Adirondacks for the night (our base for longer hikes). We arrived at the lake at 10:00 p.m., talked with Wendy, Richie, Craig, and Maria (my in-laws) for a short time, and managed to get to bed by 11:00 p.m. After a very short night’s sleep, we awoke at 4:00 a.m., got out of the house by 4:30, and to the parking lot at the HPIC, hitting the trail at 6:05 a.m. The sun had come up just a few minutes earlier. It was a bit humid, in the upper 60s.
As expected, we made great time to Marcy Dam, looking at all the new growth around the meanders of Marcy Brook as it restores a path for itself where the pond used to be. We then headed up around the east side of Colden, and uphill at a gentle grade towards Lake Arnold. This was a pretty good part of the hike and, as we got to the lake, the low clouds begin to lift a bit. It was very nice and relaxing sitting at the lake for a few minutes where a few other hiking groups joined us. After a short break, we began to descend into the valley. It wasn’t long until we came upon a couple of women who warned us about the upcoming bog and its floating bridge. (I’d read about this earlier.) They were a great help, recommending we seal our cell phones in plastic and place them up high in our packs. The bog is about 5-10’ deep. We were all really surprised when we saw what the actual crossing looked like. The area is less than a quarter mile north of where this trail hits the Mt. Marcy Trail. It was an amusing treat seeing the unique floating planks and logs tied together, serving as a pseudo-bridge. One by one, we crossed successfully, and by the time we got to the end, we were all excited, and thought it was a fun adventure. It would have been a completely different story if any of us hadn’t crossed successfully. The two women followed us, then noted their surprise that there was yet another, similar area to cross, after rains last night had flooded a spot that was drier the day before. This wasn’t too much of an issue though, and it was much easier to cross.
Vegetation along Marcy Brook, where the pond used to be (see my photo from the 10/21/2006 Mount Marcy hike by comparison, although that photo looks across this area from a different angle)
A rest at peaceful Lake Arnold
The infamous floating bridge over the bog, where in places the bridge sinks about 2-3” under water as you step on it
Not so bad here, towards the end of the “bridge”
Then we began our ascent into the upper valley, which was easy compared to everything else, and went by quickly. We got to Lake Tear of the Clouds at 11:10 a.m., 5 hours into our hike. This is a great site. The lake is very picturesque, with a nice view of Mount Marcy. It’s both the headwaters of the Hudson River and the site where then Vice President Theodore Roosevelt was found by a scout, and told that President McKinley, who had been shot a week earlier, was doing very poorly, and that he’d better return to civilization, since he was about to become President of the United States. We also found what some believe (unconfirmed) is an ancient petroglyph on the rocks. After spending a bit of time enjoying the spot, we returned to the cairn, right where the stream emerges from the lake, and immediately started our ascent of Gray Peak. We went up a small rise, then descended a short distance, finding a large rock, about 8 feet tall, that we had to get down. This was a bit tricky, with a long narrow crack that angled downwards along the rock and served as a foothold. We each managed this obstacle differently, with assistance from people below guiding us. We continued our ascent of Gray, which was steep, but not too bad, except for two big, rocky faces, but each had a bypass around it to the right, so they really didn’t pose much of a problem.
Lake Tear of the Clouds, with Mount Marcy behind it
And so begins the Mighty Hudson River!
A possible ancient petroglyph on the southwest corner of Lake Tear of the Clouds
David & I summitted at 12:10, a bit behind Alex & Camryn, and just 40 minutes after we started up. We found the views to be good just shy of the summit, with a few trees, a great view from just a bit beyond that of Mount Skylight across the way and Mount Marcy (Gray is just a shoulder of Marcy). The day was quite clear now, and the humidity had dropped, with temperatures around the upper 70s. We spent about 10 minutes at the summit, and took about half an hour to return to the lake.
And Gray brings the count to 30!
Panorama from the top of Gray Peak
We headed up the trail on the other side of Lake Tear, and in only about 15 minutes, hit the Four Corners junction to ascend Skylight. This is a popular spot, and several hikers were gathered here. From here, it took only about 40 minutes for me and David to get to the top of Skylight, with Alex and Camryn moving at a much faster pace. This was a great climb, with a nice, steady rise along a stream bed. David and I grabbed some obligatory rocks to bring to the top (rumored to suppress rain for the rest of your hike!). We summitted at 1:55 p.m., and it was gorgeous! What an awesome peak. It instantly became my new favorite. The broad, bald summit is covered with arctic alpine vegetation and outstanding views all around. Mount Marcy dominates the view north. As a less popular peak, there were just one or two other hiking groups there with us at any time (including a friendly couple in their early 20s, whom we seemed to see about every hour, since Lake Tear). David noted that this is what his Alaska hikes look like. We stayed up here for about 45 minutes, just enjoying the location, eating lunch, and taking photos. We even all took our boots and socks off to pay homage to Mark R, who did that on our hike two years earlier, but tragically passed away last year from lung cancer. We’d teased him relentlessly when he took them off, but he was right—it felt great!! Our feet felt totally rejuvenated after breathing for a while. Thank you, Mark!
Almost there! Nearing the summit
Taking it all in atop Skylight
Cousin shot
Resting our peds. Thank you, Mark!
Winding our way along the path through the alpine tundra on the flat top of Skylight
It took us only about 20 minutes to return to Four Corners, still bustling, we stayed here for about 10 minutes, and decided to go for the full loop, and climb the 1000’ to Marcy’s summit from the south side. Great choice! This approach is out in the open on bare rock for the last 40% or so. It’s steep, but quite doable, and a beautiful hike up.
Sign at Four Corners
Hiking the rocky spine on the southwest “backside” of Marcy
I waited with David, doing a slower climb than Alex & Camryn, and we got to the top around 4:15 p.m. It was a nice, sunny day, with the distant mountains slowly dissolving into the haze. Marcy’s views are spectacular. I was less excited about this one because it was my third time at the top of the state’s highest point. It was a first for David & Camryn, though, and it is stunning. Camryn fully enjoyed it, and asked if we’d stay up here for a little while, causing David to immediately demote him back to “red shirt” status (a Star Trek reference, and ongoing joke for this hike). Lots of people up here, as expected, and I couldn’t resist offering to take a great shot of the couple we kept passing, perched picturesquely on an overlook.
Hard to beat the views from Marcy, towering above them all
My satisfied companions on top of Marcy – No more ups for the day!
We headed down after about 30 minutes and began the very long hike back. Expecting the length, it didn’t really bother me, and it’s really a nice and easy hike for the High Peaks. Our last 30 minutes required headlamps, and we were back at the car at 9:02 p.m., almost exactly 15 hours after we started out. Then the rain started! David wasn’t a big fan of the ascent of Gray, but other than that, we all agreed it was our favorite hike so far. This is such a great loop! We stopped for a quick dinner at Noonmark Diner, and drove home, arriving at 12:45 a.m., took showers, and hit the beds after a very long, but fabulous day.
Did someone say, “Down”?